A climate that once was regarded as inappropriate and inadequate for producing wines of European quality, became a unique factor when the transformation began to happen. Finger Lakes, with its finger-shaped glacial lakes, has a cool, even cold, climate. Summer is short, and winter is long and hard with temperatures down to minus 9 degrees F. Without the lakes’ moderating influence, it would probably be impossible to make wine here. Thanks to the cold water in the lakes during spring, budding is late, which reduces the risk of spring frost. In autumn, the lakes, now heated by the sun, extend the growing season.
But even with the lakes, it is a challenging climate for Vitis vinifera grapes. But that does not stop the region from gaining respect as a serious and ambitious Riesling producer. Riesling is the most important variety after Concord. “Riesling in the Finger Lakes is a lot about waiting for the ripening until the very end of the season,” says a knowledgeable and passionate grower. “We let the grapes sit on the vines to develop a little more.” Other vinifera grapes also show good results, such as Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and, not least, Cabernet Franc.
You may have to be born and raised in the Finger Lakes to appreciate the taste of the Vitis labrusca grape Concord. Several other labrusca grapes, such as Niagra, “a classic in the region”,are mainly used for grape juice and jellies.
However, many crosses between European vines and various American Vitis, so-called hybrids, are also planted. Some popular grapes are Vidal, Seyval Blanc and Ortega. The new generation of hybrids, called PIWI or resistant grapes, is also present. These have been crossed multiple times and retain a high portion of Vitis vinifera and have a high resistance to diseases.
In many ways, the evolution of wine industry in this region celebrates the triumph of the new world over the old world, of science, technology, skill, and expertise over tradition. It also forcefully establishes the position of America in the global wine order over the old world represented by Europe and areas around the Mediterranean. Today when styles and substance can be imitated and invented with equal relish, the region has acquired a formidable reputation for its highly acclaimed wines, spirits, and ciders.
And one person who was instrumental in gradually but decidedly changing the wine landscape of this region was Dr. Konstantin Frank.
Dr. Konstantin Frank
He single-handedly revolutionised the wine industry in this region, by demonstration and persuasion and forever changed the palate of American wine. His story is one of perseverance and innovation. When he arrived in the United States from Ukraine as an immigrant in the early 1950s, he was met with scepticism about his belief that European vinifera grapes could thrive in the cold climate of the Finger Lakes. Many doubted his ideas, believing that only native American grapes could survive. Undeterred, Dr. Frank conducted extensive research and experiments, ultimately proving his critics wrong. His success laid the foundation for the modern wine industry in the region, transforming it into a hub for high-quality vinifera wines. His innovativeness has allowed the region to produce some of the world’s finest Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and other varietals.
The Old Glory- Pleasant Valley Wine Company
The Pleasant Valley Wine Company, established in 1860 represents the old school wine making of the pre vinifera era. Located in Hammondsport, it holds the distinction of being the first bonded winery in the United States and played a pioneering role in the development of the American wine industry. The story of the Pleasant Valley Wine Company is one of resilience and adaptation. From its pioneering beginnings in the 19th century to navigating the tumultuous Prohibition era and embracing modern winemaking advancements, the winery remains a testament to the enduring spirit of the Finger Lakes wine region.
The winery was founded by Charles Davenport Champlin and a group of local investors. They capitalized on the region’s favourable microclimate and rich glacial soils to grow native grape varieties, particularly Catawba, and later Concord. Pleasant Valley Wine Company quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality sparkling wines, earning accolades both domestically and internationally.
In its early years, the winery flourished, expanding its operations and innovating in wine production. The success of Pleasant Valley set a precedent for other wineries in the region, contributing to the Finger Lakes’ reputation as a burgeoning wine-producing area.
The advent of Prohibition in 1920 dealt a severe blow to the American wine industry. Like many other wineries, Pleasant Valley faced the challenge of staying afloat during the 13-year ban on alcohol production and sale. To survive, the winery shifted its focus to producing sacramental wines, which were allowed under Prohibition laws. Additionally, they produced non-alcoholic grape juice and medicinal wines, which were also exempt from the ban.
With the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, Pleasant Valley Wine Company resumed its wine production activities. The post-Prohibition era saw a shift towards European vinifera grape varieties, which offered higher quality wines and better market prospects. The winery adapted to these changes, integrating modern viticulture and vinification techniques to maintain its competitive edge. Today, it is known as great Western Winery and offers a range of wines, including sparkling, still, and dessert wines, while also functioning as a historic site.
(To Be Continued….)
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